Highway 73.
A bus journey through the heart of Arthurs Pass.
From Issue 104 2022.
Images Matt Cherubino.
Unlike most ski stories, this one starts 20km west of Oamaru, where the Murray brothers acquired an old Mitsubishi Fuso bus. It was an idea generated in Charlie’s mind while racing bikes in Europe and one his brother, Craig, jumped on. Hard.
Before Charlie was even out of his managed isolation, the 10m ex-rural school-bus was safely stashed, in their old man’s driveway. Over a number of dark autumn nights, and with the help of many friends and family, the bus was slowly converted into the ultimate adventure machine and named Rongo.
From the outside, Rongo resembled a cross between something out of Mad Max and a Transformer. Inside, it had side-facing seats and so many windows that travelling felt like being inside nature’s own moving TV set.
With the finishing touches done and the final coat of Landcruiser Beige paint almost dry, it was time for Rongo’s maiden voyage. For the inaugural journey, Craig had put together his dream winter trip along State Highway 73—The Great Alpine Highway from Canterbury to the West Coast. This stunning piece of road weaves 231km through the Southern Alps and is home to most of the country’s renowned club-fields.
It was at these very club-fields that Craig and fellow Cantabrian, James Hampton, first planted their skiing roots as young groms. Joining them on their nostalgic bus trip were club-field virgins Miguel and Nico Porteous, cameramen Finlay Woods & Chris Maunsell alongside stills maestro Matt Cherubino.
The plan was to head west along SH73, stopping off at three club-fields on the way to their final destination, Temple Basin. With the packing almost complete, there was an electric atmosphere of excitement and nerves as good weather and snow conditions were required to pull off the objectives. Craig pored over weather maps and eventually lined up a storm 10 days away. With a clear window after it passed, it promised to leave Temple Basin in prime condition.
The trigger was pulled and the trip was on. Not everything was ready and nothing was certain, but this was the best opportunity they were going to get. As Rongo’s door swung shut there was a quiet celebration as they pulled onto the road.
Favourite Clubfield?
Miquel — Broken River with its rainforest-esque access, the cold mystery lagers and the friendly locals.
Finlay — The club-fields are so unique, and they’re so different from each other. They’ve got such a cool family culture and an old-school Kiwi attitude, which I love: fix-things-yourself-out-of-nothing kind of thing. I really like the lodges at Broken River. They’re nestled on a ridge in native bush and have such a cool feel to them. Temple Basin probably takes the cake, though. The terrain there is so sick and it made for such an epic place to film.”
Matt — It’s hard to single out just one field, as each has its own quirks and embodies the heart of skiing in New Zealand. Broken River to me was incredible – the access through the trees in the tram, then walking past all of the mountain huts to reach the rope tow.
“When’s Miguel going to bake more choccy muffins? I’ve got a big morning with the hoggets tomorrow.” Declan, Mt White Station worker.
Best sleeping spot on the bus and why?
Matt — I’d have to say the bench seat up front. It offers a reprieve from the snoring gallery in the back.
Finlay — No, definitely the back end of the bottom bunk. It’s roomy, a nice temperature and there’s no-one standing on you during the night. The top bunks are super-hot with 5cms between your nose and the roof. You have to try them all though.
Miquel — Definitely the back corner on the bottom bunk. There’s ample space, cubby-hole access and a ventilation window directly above for when Maunsell gets gas.
Nico — The back corner, 100%. This spot is the king suite in the bus. If you’re lucky enough to snag this beauty, you’re in for a real treat and it’s as cosy as anything.
Best horse-rider to watch and why?
Matt — This is a hotly contested topic. I reckon it’s a tie between Miguel being gracefully bucked off the horse and Jamesa’s riding, which parallels a poor set of dance moves.
Miguel —Jamesa. The flying Fijian was bouncing out of rhythm, bearing resemblance to something you might’ve watched on an X-rated website.
Finlay — It’s a hard call between Jamesa and Miguel. Miguel gave it everything, which led to him getting thrown off. Jamesa was so funny—he was as stiff as a floorboard up there and couldn’t have been more out of rhythm with the horse.
Craig — Miguel Porteous. He had very little control, but still went full ham with a smile. Unfortunately, he came a gutser and didn’t get back on the horse, haha.
Nico —Craig and his love for North (his horse) was something quite special. But I think I would have to give the most entertaining rider award to Jamesa. I could try to explain it, but it would be slightly inappropriate.
Most memorable meal, and who was worst chef of the trip?
Finlay — Definitely Miguel’s hot pot venison. He was injured and stayed with the bus while we skied. He managed to pull off one of the best slow-cooked venison stews I’ve had, using a standard pot inside the bus’s fire. It was seriously impressive, and while it simmered in there for more than eight hours, he practiced his stock-whip skills. What a guy.
Miguel — Cherub can’t win the worst cook title, because to do that, you have to cook. Plus, he kept asking for truffles and oysters while we were on the bus. This ain’t no Michelin Star restaurant. Besides, truffles aren’t in season until January.
“This lockdown is the second-worst day of my life after SnowPark closing.” Jamesa Hampton.
Best stretch of road on Highway 73?
Matt — Arthurs Pass. That slice of tarmac is dwarfed by the Southern Alps and snakes its way through some of the best landscapes I’ve had the privilege of seeing. There’s certainly a reason why people fly halfway across the world to drive it.
Finlay —The viaduct on Arthurs Pass is pretty spectacular. There isn’t really like anything else like it in NZ. We tried to some shots there, but it was pissing down and blowing 80 assholes. Chris was holding this plastic bin lid over me and the camera, but the wind kept blowing it in front of the lens.
Thoughts on the snap lockdown that denied you the storm of the season at Temple?
Finlay —The timing of the lockdown was one of the biggest daggers ever. We had what the locals were calling a once-in-a-10-year storm, with reports of a metre of snow and four clear days and cold temps following. We’d arrived at Temple Basin the day of the storm, built a booter and had everything in place for what was going to be the best day’s filming of our lives.
Then the ultimate skunking of the lockdown came and slapped us in the face. We were put in a morally hard position: did we camp out in one of the huts, hiding from the staff and everyone else, to try to stack clips in the crazy window we had?
Eventually, we made the right call and left the mountain, not wanting to put unnecessary stress on hospitals if someone injured themselves, and not wanting to put ourselves or Temple in the news for breaking lockdown rules.
This left the project at a very loose end, and after all the work we’d put in, it was a tough pill to swallow. I think six weeks went by as we waited for another window to go back to Temple, and the NZ season got scarily close to the end of winter.”
Miguel —I’m pretty sure I’ve had nightmares about the words ‘we’re going to have to shut the mountain’ that were spoken by Elliot the Temple manager. Thankfully, with a strike of luck and patience, the boys got it done on the return mission in October.
Craig — It was a crazy 48 hours. Plans were being flipped every few hours, so we just held on for the ride. It finished with an angry mid-Canterbury man shooting a live round through his rifle over an Olympian’s head.”
"I taught myself how to crack a whip." Miguel 'Tex' Porteous.